Miscellaneous.
The miscellaneous section is intended to provide members with information and advice on various issues or items of interest relating to the RKKA. Members are invited to contact the unit CO and moderator, if they have a specific request or a feature for inclusion in this section.
Contents.
1. Winter Clothing.
2. Soviet Camouflage.
3. Plashch Palatka.
4. Shinel "Skatka" bedroll.
5. Portyanki.
6. How to tie the myeshok.
7. Using the Mosin Nagant rifle cleaning kit.
8. The Soldiers Army book.
The list of contents is not exhaustive as new items can be added in the future.
1. Winter clothing.
Schapka ushanka.
Shapka ushanka winter hat.
Introduced in 1940 to replace the schlem, which proved to be ineffective against extreme cold weather, as encountered by the Soviets during the Winter War with Finland in 1939-40.
One of the archetypical images during the Great Patriotic War was of the Red Army soldier wearing a fur cap.
Enlisted men's caps were made from a synthetic material and was jokingly referred by the soldiers as being made from "fish fur", i.e. bearing no resemblance to fur from any animal. Officer caps were of a better quality made from lambs wool or astrakhan. The synthetic fur hats came in various shades and colours, but followed a basic pattern in shape and appearance. A larger enamelled or painted metal cap star was affixed to the front flap of the hat. Schapka uskanka in Russian literally means " ear flap hat".
One of the archetypical images during the Great Patriotic War was of the Red Army soldier wearing a fur cap.
Enlisted men's caps were made from a synthetic material and was jokingly referred by the soldiers as being made from "fish fur", i.e. bearing no resemblance to fur from any animal. Officer caps were of a better quality made from lambs wool or astrakhan. The synthetic fur hats came in various shades and colours, but followed a basic pattern in shape and appearance. A larger enamelled or painted metal cap star was affixed to the front flap of the hat. Schapka uskanka in Russian literally means " ear flap hat".
Vatniki. Telogreika & Vatnie sharovari.
Telogreika, front showing button & loop arrangemant.
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Telogreika. rear showing belt arrangement.
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Vatni sharovari, front showing waist, thigh pocket and knee reinforcing detail.
During the war two types of Telogreika (padded jacket) were in use. The early pattern, which had a fall collar and a later one which had a short stand up collar. The jacket had an external pocket on each hip and a single internal pocket on the left breast. There was a half belt and adjustment buckle on the back. Telogreika literally in Russian means "body warmer" and it was intended to be worn over the wool issue gimnastiorka and under the greatcoat, hence the telogreika had no external insignia. Although, when worn without the greatcoat it was often seen in the field worn with pogonii by NCOs and Officers. A ushanka hat, mittens, a wool knit "balaclava" hat worn as a neck muffler and valenki felt boots complete the winter attire. |
Vatnie sharovari, rear showing belt detail and ankle tie tapes.
The Vatnie sharovari (padded trousers) had a pocket on each hip and some patterns had reinforced knee patches and a single external pocket on the right thigh. A vent and half belt and buckle was on the back for adjustment. |
Valenki or felt boots.
Valenki boots were made from compressed felt and were only suitable for use in temperatures well below freezing. In thawing conditions they would soak up moisure and would be rendered useless. Rubber galoshes over shoes were also worn to protect the soles. Straw, paper and extra foot wraps could be worn to further insulate the feet. 
A pair of rubber galoshes over shoes for use with the valenki.
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Mittens.
Mittens (Rukavyetze) had a finger incorporated so the wearer could operate the trigger on a weapon. They also had a felt backing, used to wipe condensation from the wearers face. Gloves (Perchatkye) were of a beige/brown knit.A wool knitted "balaclava" type hat (Podschlemnik) may also have been worn to further protect the wearers head.
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Bekesha.
The Bekesha winter coat (sometimes referred to as a tulup) was issued as a military garment in 1931. It was made of sheep skin, with the fleece worn on the inside. It had six buttons and loops and was fastened at the front right side. The buttons were large so that the wearer could easily fasten it up wearing mittens or gloves. There is a pocket on each hip. Buttons and loops were sometimes on the shoulders so that pogonii could be worn. It was issued to both Officers and Enlisted men.
The coat is sometimes times referred to as a Shuba. The Shuba is a traditional Russian coat originating from pre medieval times and made from animal fur. It was worn with the fur on the outside and often cut long to the wearers feet. A shorter version of the same coat was known as a polishubok.
2. Soviet Camouflage clothing.
The Soviet Union and the Red Army were early exponents in the development of camouflage clothing. As early as 1919 they had set up research and developement and a school dedicated to camouflage and concealment, or "masking" as it was know in the Soviet Union. By 1927 three types of camouflage garments were produced, consisting of a loose fitting two piece oversuit in dull green summer and autumn colours and one which had painted sponges glued to it to simulate foliage.
In 1938 a new type pattern suit was issued, distinguished by its large splotches, or the "amoeba" pattern as it has became to be known. It came in various colour schemes for the relevant seasons and in two different cuts. The MK (Maskirovochniy Kombinezon) was a one piece coverall and the MKK (Maskirovochniy Kamuflirovanniy Kostum) was a two piece suit. Both types were of a thin loose fitting material with a large hood attached, designed to be worn over the standard uniform and equipment. Some patterns had a face veil attached to the hood and others had a separate face veil mask. There was supposedly another pattern of the 1938 MK coverall, which had a reversable side in a sandy and greyish colour and was for use in arrid terrain, however this type was not in common use. Another pattern, the Mochalniy, a dark green suit which had tufts of simulated string/rafia grass attached and loops for fixing local foliage all over the suit.
In 1941 a two coloured leaf patterned suit was introduced and was referred to as letniy kamuflyazh (summer leaf camouflage), which was produced in at least two variations (green or grey/brown). In 1944 a three coloured block deceptive pattern was also introduced. In 1945 by a further variation was seen, which was basically the 1944 pattern suit with an overprint of brown amoeba shapes in the same style as the 1938 pattern suit. This 1945 pattern suit was not widely in use and the amoeba shapes may have been applied to the 1944 suits "in the field" and were apparently not encountered after 1950.
The MK and MKK suits were issued to snipers, scouts (Razvyedchiki), combat engineers and reconnaissance troops of other arms.
Pre and early war issue to troops in the field was a personal camouflage net. It measured 150 cm x 75 cms and was used to conceal individual positions and weapons together with foliage. Also produced was a camouflage fringe made from rafia to simulate grass, measuring about 3 metres long, with hooks/loops at the ends, so it could be attached to the wearers uniform or equipment. Several could be attached together to conceal larger items.
Winter camouflage.
There were two patterns of winter camouflage during the war. The later pattern was a two piece suit, similarly cut to the above described MKK suit, but with mitten/glove covers attached to the sleeve cuffs. The earlier pattern was a one piece hooded overcoat type, cut longer so it could be worn over the greatcoat. It was fastened at the front by tie tapes. Also, in the field rudimentary winter camouflage covering could be fashioned from white linen or bedding materials.
During the war the Germans produced several reports on Soviet camouflage and concealment practices for information and to be adopted by their own forces in the field. It was generally acknowledged that the Soviets were far more adept than the Germans on the subject.
In 1938 a new type pattern suit was issued, distinguished by its large splotches, or the "amoeba" pattern as it has became to be known. It came in various colour schemes for the relevant seasons and in two different cuts. The MK (Maskirovochniy Kombinezon) was a one piece coverall and the MKK (Maskirovochniy Kamuflirovanniy Kostum) was a two piece suit. Both types were of a thin loose fitting material with a large hood attached, designed to be worn over the standard uniform and equipment. Some patterns had a face veil attached to the hood and others had a separate face veil mask. There was supposedly another pattern of the 1938 MK coverall, which had a reversable side in a sandy and greyish colour and was for use in arrid terrain, however this type was not in common use. Another pattern, the Mochalniy, a dark green suit which had tufts of simulated string/rafia grass attached and loops for fixing local foliage all over the suit.
In 1941 a two coloured leaf patterned suit was introduced and was referred to as letniy kamuflyazh (summer leaf camouflage), which was produced in at least two variations (green or grey/brown). In 1944 a three coloured block deceptive pattern was also introduced. In 1945 by a further variation was seen, which was basically the 1944 pattern suit with an overprint of brown amoeba shapes in the same style as the 1938 pattern suit. This 1945 pattern suit was not widely in use and the amoeba shapes may have been applied to the 1944 suits "in the field" and were apparently not encountered after 1950.
The MK and MKK suits were issued to snipers, scouts (Razvyedchiki), combat engineers and reconnaissance troops of other arms.
Pre and early war issue to troops in the field was a personal camouflage net. It measured 150 cm x 75 cms and was used to conceal individual positions and weapons together with foliage. Also produced was a camouflage fringe made from rafia to simulate grass, measuring about 3 metres long, with hooks/loops at the ends, so it could be attached to the wearers uniform or equipment. Several could be attached together to conceal larger items.
Winter camouflage.
There were two patterns of winter camouflage during the war. The later pattern was a two piece suit, similarly cut to the above described MKK suit, but with mitten/glove covers attached to the sleeve cuffs. The earlier pattern was a one piece hooded overcoat type, cut longer so it could be worn over the greatcoat. It was fastened at the front by tie tapes. Also, in the field rudimentary winter camouflage covering could be fashioned from white linen or bedding materials.
During the war the Germans produced several reports on Soviet camouflage and concealment practices for information and to be adopted by their own forces in the field. It was generally acknowledged that the Soviets were far more adept than the Germans on the subject.
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Amoeba suit. A 1938 pattern MKK two piece 'amoeba' suit.
Pre/early war camouflage fringe. Reconstruction by S. Vanlint, 2nd Guards.
Two piece winter camouflage suit.
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1944 three coloured block patterned suit.
1945 block pattern with amoeba overprint pattern.
 1941 Soviet troops wearing one piece winter greatcoat coverall. Note: in the field, coloured cloth arm bands were wore to distinguish "friendly" units from enemy units, who may be similarly attired in winter camouflage. |
3. Plashch Palatka or raincoat/tent shelter.
Instructions for the use of the plashch palatka are taken from the original manual: Palatka-Plashch-Nakidka, Moscow dated 1938.
The plashch palatka (in Russian means: raincoat/tent) provided the Red Army soldier rudimentary protection from the elements. Simple in design, versatile and practical, it is an essential item for use in the field for any Soviet re enactor of the GPW period.
It was used for sleeping in, a rain cape with a hood, it could be fashioned into a basic lean to or a tent shelter for one person or combined with other capes to accommodate 2,4 or 6 persons, used for casualty evacuation or for weather proofing in dugouts and trenches etc
There was an officers version of the rain cape, called a Plashch Nakidka. It was made of the same material as the plashch with tie cords at the neck, a detachable hood and an arm vent on each side of the front of the cape. However, it could not be adapted for use as a tent or lean to shelter like the enlisted men's plashch palatkas.
The plashch palatka (in Russian means: raincoat/tent) provided the Red Army soldier rudimentary protection from the elements. Simple in design, versatile and practical, it is an essential item for use in the field for any Soviet re enactor of the GPW period.
It was used for sleeping in, a rain cape with a hood, it could be fashioned into a basic lean to or a tent shelter for one person or combined with other capes to accommodate 2,4 or 6 persons, used for casualty evacuation or for weather proofing in dugouts and trenches etc
There was an officers version of the rain cape, called a Plashch Nakidka. It was made of the same material as the plashch with tie cords at the neck, a detachable hood and an arm vent on each side of the front of the cape. However, it could not be adapted for use as a tent or lean to shelter like the enlisted men's plashch palatkas.
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On the inner side of the cape near the centre is a single wooden toggle. When worn as a rain cape, the toggle is used to secure the bottom corner by the grommet, which otherwise the bottom corner of the cape would drag on the ground.
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Folding the plashch.
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3.
Fold the cape over and smooth out so it is flat.
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4.
Finally, fold the cape over in half so that the ends meet and secure with a strap or a length of rope.
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4. Shinel "Skatka" bedroll.
The Shinel greatcoat was carried by the Red Army soldier in the field throughout the year and was not just a winter issue item. When not in use the greatcoat was worn bedroll fashion over the left shoulder, so as to allow the soldier to fire his weapon from the right shoulder. This was known as a "Skatka" and often personal items were carried within the bedroll as on occasions a backpack was not issued to the soldier.
Post war greatcoats appear to be cut slightly differently from wartime coats, however the method of rolling the skatka remains unchanged. It was often seen being worn with the ends of the bedroll tucked into the early pattern mess tin cook pot.
HOW TO FOLD THE SHINEL INTO A SKATKA.
1. Unfasten the left button of the half belt (Hylastic) on the back of the greatcoat. Lay the greatcoat on the ground with the inner side uppermost. Spread out the skirts, sleeves and collar and smooth out the pockets and coat liner so they are flat.
2. Roll the coat, start by folding the collar and out stretched sleeves towards the waist line. Fold the outer corner of each skirt of the coat so as to be in line with the end of each outstreched sleeve cuff as shown.
3. Fold the bottom edge of the coat in towards the waist seam so that the rear coat vent is on the folded upper side as shown.
4. Tightly roll from the sleeve end of the coat until the bottom edge is reached. I have found you can get a neater tighter finish if two persons roll the coat.
5. Finally, fold the rolled coat in half so the folded bottom edge is uppermost as shown and secure the ends with a strap. The rain cape can be secured with straps to the outer side of the greacoat or the coat can be rolled within the cape.
Post war greatcoats appear to be cut slightly differently from wartime coats, however the method of rolling the skatka remains unchanged. It was often seen being worn with the ends of the bedroll tucked into the early pattern mess tin cook pot.
HOW TO FOLD THE SHINEL INTO A SKATKA.
1. Unfasten the left button of the half belt (Hylastic) on the back of the greatcoat. Lay the greatcoat on the ground with the inner side uppermost. Spread out the skirts, sleeves and collar and smooth out the pockets and coat liner so they are flat.
2. Roll the coat, start by folding the collar and out stretched sleeves towards the waist line. Fold the outer corner of each skirt of the coat so as to be in line with the end of each outstreched sleeve cuff as shown.
3. Fold the bottom edge of the coat in towards the waist seam so that the rear coat vent is on the folded upper side as shown.
4. Tightly roll from the sleeve end of the coat until the bottom edge is reached. I have found you can get a neater tighter finish if two persons roll the coat.
5. Finally, fold the rolled coat in half so the folded bottom edge is uppermost as shown and secure the ends with a strap. The rain cape can be secured with straps to the outer side of the greacoat or the coat can be rolled within the cape.
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Image from original manual.
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5. Portyanki foot wraps.
Portyanki were purportedly introduced to the Imperial Russian Army after Peter the Great visited the Netherlands and saw Dutch soldiers wearing foot wraps in the early 1700's. They have remained in service with the Russian soldier until partially abandoned in the military reforms of 2007. They were finally consigned to history in 2013 and were replaced by the issue of socks.
There are some advantages to wearing foot wraps as opposed to socks. Portyanki better support the foot and air trapped in the folds better insulate the foot. Also, when wet they can be dried quicker than traditional socks. Wrapping the portyanki is a difficult technique to perfect and getting it wrong can cause some discomfort. However, once perfected, they are extremely comfortable to wear and obviate the need to perhaps wear several pairs of socks with sapogi boots.
Portyanki could be made from a medium weight linen material for summer use and a warmer thicker cotton or flannel material for winter use and measured about 35-40cm x 70-80cm.
Tip: I have found that a cotton or flannel bed pillow cover is most suitable, which I cut along the sides and end to make a pair of foot wraps. In the past I have sometimes I had to wear up to four pairs of socks to get a good fit of my sapogi boots. I have found if I wear one pair of socks with portyanki I get a really comfortable fit that lasts all day. If your boots are a tighter fit then just wearing the portyanki will suffice.
There are some advantages to wearing foot wraps as opposed to socks. Portyanki better support the foot and air trapped in the folds better insulate the foot. Also, when wet they can be dried quicker than traditional socks. Wrapping the portyanki is a difficult technique to perfect and getting it wrong can cause some discomfort. However, once perfected, they are extremely comfortable to wear and obviate the need to perhaps wear several pairs of socks with sapogi boots.
Portyanki could be made from a medium weight linen material for summer use and a warmer thicker cotton or flannel material for winter use and measured about 35-40cm x 70-80cm.
Tip: I have found that a cotton or flannel bed pillow cover is most suitable, which I cut along the sides and end to make a pair of foot wraps. In the past I have sometimes I had to wear up to four pairs of socks to get a good fit of my sapogi boots. I have found if I wear one pair of socks with portyanki I get a really comfortable fit that lasts all day. If your boots are a tighter fit then just wearing the portyanki will suffice.
1.
Lay the portyanki on a flat surface. For the right foot, place the foot at the right end of the cloth. For the left foot, place the foot at the left end. Note how the foot is angled on the cloth ie, heel towards the right rear corner of the cloth. |
2.
Fold the top right corner of the cloth over the foot and neatly tuck under the arch of the foot, ensuring there are no creases. |
3.
With the right hand pull the cloth tightly over the top of the foot, but not so tight so as to interfere with blood circulation of the foot. 5.
Raise the foot slightly onto the heel and pull the cloth under the entire length of the foot. |
4.
Raise the foot slightly onto the ball of the foot and pass the cloth under the heel. 6.
Raise the heel slightly and pull the cloth at the back of the heel to smooth out any creases under the heel. |
7.
Repeat the procedure and pull the cloth at the toes to smooth out any creases under the toes and arch of the foot.
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8.
Fold the loose cloth behind the foot along the inner side of the ankle as shown. |
9.
With the left hand holding the left corner and the right hand the right corner as you look down at the cloth, pull the cloth end upwards to tighten around the foot. Again not so tight that it interferes with blood circulation. |
10.
This is the difficult bit! With the right hand wrap the cloth corner around the outside of the ankle and around the back of the lower calve. At the same time with the corner of the cloth in the left hand, twist that corner downwards and around the back of the ankle. The left corner of the cloth should now be lower than the right corner.
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11.
Maintain the tension on the cloth with the right hand. Release the cloth in the left hand and with the right hand pull the cloth around the back of the calve. From the inner side of the foot, with the left hand reach behind the ankle to grasp the loose corner of the cloth you have just released. |
12.
With the left hand tightly pull and wrap the remaining loose cloth around to the front of the ankle.
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13.
Tuck the loose end of the cloth under the fold around the ankle to secure |
14.
Pull the bottom of the sharovari leg over the top of the portyanki and secure the trouser cords with a single tie as though you would start to tie a shoe lace.
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15.
Pass the loose ends of the trouser cord around the tie cord as shown. This method will allow some movement of adjustment around the calve, rather than a knot which is more restrictive to the bottom of the sharovaris. |
16.
Looks and sounds complicated and for the left foot it is exactly the same, only a mirror image of the same method. With a little practice you will find after a few tries you will soon achieve a comfortable fit and if you forgive the pun, "one more step towards authenticity!"
If anyone wants to have a go wearing portyanki, come and see John at one of the events, who will be happy to go through it with you. |
6. How to tie the myeshok.
1.
Place the shoulder strap loop over the back of the left hand as shown and gather in the top of the myeshok in the right hand. |
2.
Grasp both straps in the left hand as shown. |
3.
Slip the strap over the back of the left hand and over the straps as shown. |
4.
Form a slip loop large enough to push the gathered end of the myeshok through the loop. |
5.
Hold the myeshok and pull the straps to tighten as shown. |
6.
Myeshok ready to wear. |
7. Using the Mosin Nagant rifle cleaning kit.
The instructions in this section are intended for field maintenance only and do not extend beyond that ie, as carried out by an armourer for servicing and repair etc. After firing, the weapon should be cleaned immediately or as soon as possible as the blank charges we use are particularly corrosive to the bore. It is recommended that all external debris and dirt should be removed from the rifle firstly, before proceding to cleaning the barrel. The barrel should be oiled on the final pull through and thoroughly so if the weapon is to be stored for some time. Weapon cleaning after firing will be incorporated into our living history displays where appropriate.
Cleaning kit.
A. Combination tool.
B. Muzzle protector.
C. Metal stock with flattend section.
D. Cleaning rod tube.
E. Cleaning jag.
F. Cleaning brush. (not always included in kit)
G. Pre-early war combination tool.
H. Oil bottle (dual compartments)
I. Canvas tool pouch.
Although not included as standard with the cleaning kit, it is useful to have a small stiff bristled brush to use to remove debris and dirt from the areas around the breech, trigger and magazine etc.
The oil bottle is marked with the Cyrillic characters which denotes the type of lubrication in each compartment, щ & н
Щ "масло щелочная" (Maslo Shchelochnaya) base oil. H " масло Hейтральное" (Maslo Nyootralnoye) neutral oil.
Remove the cleaning rod and bolt from the rifle firstly. The cleaning rod tube and metal stock are required to assemble the ' T ' piece.
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From the threaded end of the rod, slide the larger aperture of the tube to the knurled end of the rod. Align the holes on the tube and rod.
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Insert the long end of the metal stock into the hole up to the flattened section and either tap it home or twist the stock to lock it in place. This forms a 'T' piece handle.
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Through the smal aperture on the muzzle protector, slide it onto the rod
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The brush , if available is used to remove heavy deposits of fouling from the barrel. Use the jag with a cleaning swatch to clean and to oil the barrel. Either is screw fitted to the end of the rod.
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Place the brush or jag into the barrel and slide the muzzle protector over the end of the bore. The rod can be pushed smoothly down the bore. The jag is on a swivel, which when used with a cleaning swatch, allows it to follow the rifling. Push the rod until the brush or jag emerges at the breech. Withdraw the rod back up the barrel and check the bore, before repeating the procedure as necessary.
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The bolt.
This descriptive is for brief information only. The bolt on the Mosin is unnecessarily complicated and machined, which was due to some extent, to patenting issues in the developement stages of the weapon. Assembling and disassembling can be somewhat 'fiddlesome' for those not used to doing so, as it involves some simultaneous alignment of various grooves and notches etc. Therefore it is advocated members, unless praticed, do not field strip the bolt. Advice is given on how to check and adjust the firing pin protrusion.
Bolt disassembled.
A. Bolt slide.
B. Cocking piece.
C. Bolt body.
D. Bolt head.
E. Firing pin spring.
F. Firing pin.
If any member wishes to receive further instruction on stripping the bolt etc, please refer to John, Brian, Paul or Phil T at any of our events.
The combination tool has notches along one side, which are used to check the firing pin protrusion, necessary for safe and effective firing. Note: The two outer notches are there to allow the tool to fit over the rim of the bolt face when checking the firing pin. The two central notches are sometimes marked with the figures 75 & 95. The figure 75 is for the correct gauge and the end of the pin should just be touching the top of the notch. If the end of the pin is touching the top of the 95 notch, it is protuding too far and will need adjusting. The image shows the firing pin is correctly adjusted to the 75 notch. The tension on the firing pin spring must released beforehand before testing.
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Use the flat screwdriver blade on the end the combination tool to adust the firing pin protusion. Turning clockwise, moves the pin out. Turning anti clockwise moves the pin into the bolt head.
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Removing a fouled bayonet from the rifle.
It was common practice for the bayonet to be permanantly attached to the rifle. Indeed, the rifle was often sighted and zeroed on the range with the bayonet fitted. In the field, the bayonet fitting became fouled and rusted to the muzzle, making it difficult to remove. The large aperture on the combination tool was used to release a fouled bayonet.
Combination tool showing ovaloid cutout.
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Soldiers Army Book
The following notes are a guide to completing the Army Book, which was carried at all times by the soldier.
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Page 2
1. Family name.
2. Forename & Patronymic names. 3. Rank function. 4. Recruitment unit. 5. Unit posted to. 6. Soldiers signature. Bottom left: Space for soldiers photograph - taken without head dress. Bottom right: Commanding Officers signature. |
Page 3 General Information.
1. Military specialist No.
Example: Infantry- No.s 1-5,5a,6,7,10,11 & 67. 2.Literacy & general education incl. name of any technical schooling attended. 3. Nationality. 4. Year of Birth. 5. Year & Place of recruitment. 6. Name of military registration & recruitment office. 7. Profession or speciality at time of recruitment. |
Page 4.
8. Birth place, constant home address, family name, forename & patronymic name of wife or parents.
9. Blood group type. Foot of page: Notes on completion. |
Page 5.
Postings.
1st column: Unit, Division, post & rank. 2nd column: Month & day. 3rd column: Year & order No. 4th column: Commanders signature. |
Page 6.
Campaigns, decorations and wounds.
1st column: When, where participated in combat. 2nd column: Month & day. 3rd column: Year and order No. 4th column: Commanders signature. Foot of page: Notes on completion. |
Page 7.
Uniform & Equipment issue. Pages 7 - 10.
1st column: * Ushanka/Winter Schlem. * Pilotka. * Furazkha. * Greatcoat. * Gimnastiorka - wool. * Gimnastiorka - cotton. * Sharovaris - wool. * Sharovaris - cotton. 2nd column: Quantity Issued & returned. 3rd column: Year,Month & Day issued. 4th column: Year,Month & Day returned. Note: Columns 2-4 above are the same on pages 8,9 & 10. |
Page 8.
1st column:
* Vatnie sharovaris. * Under shirt - summer. * Under shirt - winter. * Underpants. * Towel. * Handkerchief. * Portyanki foot wraps - summer. * Portyanki foot wraps - winter. * Gloves - warm. * Sapogi boots. Columns 2-3 as page 7. |
Page 9.
1st column:
* Ankle boots. * Puttees. * Half length sheepskin coat. * Felt boots. * Mattress cover. * Pillow. * Pillowcase. * Bed sheet * Blanket. Columns 2-3 as page 7. |
Page 10.
1st column:
* Waist belt. * Trouser belt. * Rifle sling. * Greatcoat strap. * Back pack. * Cavalry equipment. * Ammo pouch. * Grenade pouch. * Mess tin. * Water canteen. * Cover for mess tin. * Cover for water canteen. Columns 2-3 as page 7. |
Page 11.
Technical equipment.
1st Column: * Item issued i.e engineer equipt, gas mask etc. Columns 2-3 as page 7. Foot of page: Notes on completion. |
Page 12.
Table of sizes.
1st Column:
For soldier to note personal clothing sizes.
* Greatcoat.
* Ushanka/Schlem.
* Furazhka.
* Pilotka.
* Sapogi boots.
* Ankle boots.
* Undershirt.
* Sharovaris - both summer & winter issue breeches.
* Linen.
Columns 1-2. To note sizes
1st Column:
For soldier to note personal clothing sizes.
* Greatcoat.
* Ushanka/Schlem.
* Furazhka.
* Pilotka.
* Sapogi boots.
* Ankle boots.
* Undershirt.
* Sharovaris - both summer & winter issue breeches.
* Linen.
Columns 1-2. To note sizes