Miscellaneous.
The miscellaneous section is intended to provide members with information and advice on various issues or items of interest relating to the RKKA. Members are invited to contact the unit CO and moderator, if they have a specific request or a feature for inclusion in this section.
Contents.
1. Winter Clothing.
2. Soviet Camouflage.
3. Plashch Palatka.
4. Shinel "Skatka" bedroll.
5. Portyanki.
6. How to tie the myeshok.
7. Using the Mosin Nagant rifle cleaning kit.
8. The Soldiers Army book.
The list of contents is not exhaustive as new items can be added in the future.
1. Winter clothing.
Schapka ushanka.

Shapka ushanka winter hat.
Introduced in 1940 to replace the schlem, which proved to be ineffective against extreme cold weather, as encountered by the Soviets during the Winter War with Finland in 1939-40.
One of the archetypical images during the Great Patriotic War was of the Red Army soldier wearing a fur cap.
Enlisted men's caps were made from a synthetic material and was jokingly referred by the soldiers as being made from "fish fur", i.e. bearing no resemblance to fur from any animal. Officer caps were of a better quality made from lambs wool or astrakhan. The synthetic fur hats came in various shades and colours, but followed a basic pattern in shape and appearance. A larger enamelled or painted metal cap star was affixed to the front flap of the hat. Schapka uskanka in Russian literally means " ear flap hat".
One of the archetypical images during the Great Patriotic War was of the Red Army soldier wearing a fur cap.
Enlisted men's caps were made from a synthetic material and was jokingly referred by the soldiers as being made from "fish fur", i.e. bearing no resemblance to fur from any animal. Officer caps were of a better quality made from lambs wool or astrakhan. The synthetic fur hats came in various shades and colours, but followed a basic pattern in shape and appearance. A larger enamelled or painted metal cap star was affixed to the front flap of the hat. Schapka uskanka in Russian literally means " ear flap hat".
Vatniki. Telogreika & Vatnie sharovari.
Bekesha.

The Bekesha winter coat (sometimes referred to as a tulup) was issued as a military garment in 1931. It was made of sheep skin, with the fleece worn on the inside. It had six buttons and loops and was fastened at the front right side. The buttons were large so that the wearer could easily fasten it up wearing mittens or gloves. There is a pocket on each hip. Buttons and loops were sometimes on the shoulders so that pogonii could be worn. It was issued to both Officers and Enlisted men.
The coat is sometimes times referred to as a Shuba. The Shuba is a traditional Russian coat originating from pre medieval times and made from animal fur. It was worn with the fur on the outside and often cut long to the wearers feet. A shorter version of the same coat was known as a polishubok.
2. Soviet Camouflage clothing.
The Soviet Union and the Red Army were early exponents in the development of camouflage clothing. As early as 1919 they had set up research and developement and a school dedicated to camouflage and concealment, or "masking" as it was know in the Soviet Union. By 1927 three types of camouflage garments were produced, consisting of a loose fitting two piece oversuit in dull green summer and autumn colours and one which had painted sponges glued to it to simulate foliage.
In 1938 a new type pattern suit was issued, distinguished by its large splotches, or the "amoeba" pattern as it has became to be known. It came in various colour schemes for the relevant seasons and in two different cuts. The MK (Maskirovochniy Kombinezon) was a one piece coverall and the MKK (Maskirovochniy Kamuflirovanniy Kostum) was a two piece suit. Both types were of a thin loose fitting material with a large hood attached, designed to be worn over the standard uniform and equipment. Some patterns had a face veil attached to the hood and others had a separate face veil mask. There was supposedly another pattern of the 1938 MK coverall, which had a reversable side in a sandy and greyish colour and was for use in arrid terrain, however this type was not in common use. Another pattern, the Mochalniy, a dark green suit which had tufts of simulated string/rafia grass attached and loops for fixing local foliage all over the suit.
In 1941 a two coloured leaf patterned suit was introduced and was referred to as letniy kamuflyazh (summer leaf camouflage), which was produced in at least two variations (green or grey/brown). In 1944 a three coloured block deceptive pattern was also introduced. In 1945 by a further variation was seen, which was basically the 1944 pattern suit with an overprint of brown amoeba shapes in the same style as the 1938 pattern suit. This 1945 pattern suit was not widely in use and the amoeba shapes may have been applied to the 1944 suits "in the field" and were apparently not encountered after 1950.
The MK and MKK suits were issued to snipers, scouts (Razvyedchiki), combat engineers and reconnaissance troops of other arms.
Pre and early war issue to troops in the field was a personal camouflage net. It measured 150 cm x 75 cms and was used to conceal individual positions and weapons together with foliage. Also produced was a camouflage fringe made from rafia to simulate grass, measuring about 3 metres long, with hooks/loops at the ends, so it could be attached to the wearers uniform or equipment. Several could be attached together to conceal larger items.
Winter camouflage.
There were two patterns of winter camouflage during the war. The later pattern was a two piece suit, similarly cut to the above described MKK suit, but with mitten/glove covers attached to the sleeve cuffs. The earlier pattern was a one piece hooded overcoat type, cut longer so it could be worn over the greatcoat. It was fastened at the front by tie tapes. Also, in the field rudimentary winter camouflage covering could be fashioned from white linen or bedding materials.
During the war the Germans produced several reports on Soviet camouflage and concealment practices for information and to be adopted by their own forces in the field. It was generally acknowledged that the Soviets were far more adept than the Germans on the subject.
In 1938 a new type pattern suit was issued, distinguished by its large splotches, or the "amoeba" pattern as it has became to be known. It came in various colour schemes for the relevant seasons and in two different cuts. The MK (Maskirovochniy Kombinezon) was a one piece coverall and the MKK (Maskirovochniy Kamuflirovanniy Kostum) was a two piece suit. Both types were of a thin loose fitting material with a large hood attached, designed to be worn over the standard uniform and equipment. Some patterns had a face veil attached to the hood and others had a separate face veil mask. There was supposedly another pattern of the 1938 MK coverall, which had a reversable side in a sandy and greyish colour and was for use in arrid terrain, however this type was not in common use. Another pattern, the Mochalniy, a dark green suit which had tufts of simulated string/rafia grass attached and loops for fixing local foliage all over the suit.
In 1941 a two coloured leaf patterned suit was introduced and was referred to as letniy kamuflyazh (summer leaf camouflage), which was produced in at least two variations (green or grey/brown). In 1944 a three coloured block deceptive pattern was also introduced. In 1945 by a further variation was seen, which was basically the 1944 pattern suit with an overprint of brown amoeba shapes in the same style as the 1938 pattern suit. This 1945 pattern suit was not widely in use and the amoeba shapes may have been applied to the 1944 suits "in the field" and were apparently not encountered after 1950.
The MK and MKK suits were issued to snipers, scouts (Razvyedchiki), combat engineers and reconnaissance troops of other arms.
Pre and early war issue to troops in the field was a personal camouflage net. It measured 150 cm x 75 cms and was used to conceal individual positions and weapons together with foliage. Also produced was a camouflage fringe made from rafia to simulate grass, measuring about 3 metres long, with hooks/loops at the ends, so it could be attached to the wearers uniform or equipment. Several could be attached together to conceal larger items.
Winter camouflage.
There were two patterns of winter camouflage during the war. The later pattern was a two piece suit, similarly cut to the above described MKK suit, but with mitten/glove covers attached to the sleeve cuffs. The earlier pattern was a one piece hooded overcoat type, cut longer so it could be worn over the greatcoat. It was fastened at the front by tie tapes. Also, in the field rudimentary winter camouflage covering could be fashioned from white linen or bedding materials.
During the war the Germans produced several reports on Soviet camouflage and concealment practices for information and to be adopted by their own forces in the field. It was generally acknowledged that the Soviets were far more adept than the Germans on the subject.
3. Plashch Palatka or raincoat/tent shelter.

Instructions for the use of the plashch palatka are taken from the original manual: Palatka-Plashch-Nakidka, Moscow dated 1938.
The plashch palatka (in Russian means: raincoat/tent) provided the Red Army soldier rudimentary protection from the elements. Simple in design, versatile and practical, it is an essential item for use in the field for any Soviet re enactor of the GPW period.
It was used for sleeping in, a rain cape with a hood, it could be fashioned into a basic lean to or a tent shelter for one person or combined with other capes to accommodate 2,4 or 6 persons, used for casualty evacuation or for weather proofing in dugouts and trenches etc
There was an officers version of the rain cape, called a Plashch Nakidka. It was made of the same material as the plashch with tie cords at the neck, a detachable hood and an arm vent on each side of the front of the cape. However, it could not be adapted for use as a tent or lean to shelter like the enlisted men's plashch palatkas.
The plashch palatka (in Russian means: raincoat/tent) provided the Red Army soldier rudimentary protection from the elements. Simple in design, versatile and practical, it is an essential item for use in the field for any Soviet re enactor of the GPW period.
It was used for sleeping in, a rain cape with a hood, it could be fashioned into a basic lean to or a tent shelter for one person or combined with other capes to accommodate 2,4 or 6 persons, used for casualty evacuation or for weather proofing in dugouts and trenches etc
There was an officers version of the rain cape, called a Plashch Nakidka. It was made of the same material as the plashch with tie cords at the neck, a detachable hood and an arm vent on each side of the front of the cape. However, it could not be adapted for use as a tent or lean to shelter like the enlisted men's plashch palatkas.
On the inner side of the cape near the centre is a single wooden toggle. When worn as a rain cape, the toggle is used to secure the bottom corner by the grommet, which otherwise the bottom corner of the cape would drag on the ground.
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4. Shinel "Skatka" bedroll.
. The Shinel greatcoat was carried by the Red Army soldier in the field throughout the year and was not just a winter issue item. When not in use the greatcoat was worn bedroll fashion over the left shoulder, so as to allow the soldier to fire his weapon from the right shoulder. This was known as a "Skatka" and often personal items were carried within the bedroll as on occasions a backpack was not issued to the soldier.
Post war greatcoats appear to be cut slightly differently from wartime coats, however the method of rolling the skatka remains unchanged.It was often seen being worn with the ends of the bedroll tucked into the early pattern mess tin cook pot
HOW TO FOLD THE SHINEL INTO A SKATKA.
1. Unfasten the left button of the half belt (Hylastic) on the back of the greatcoat. Lay the greatcoat on the ground with the inner side uppermost. Spread out the skirts, sleeves and collar and smooth out the pockets and coat liner so they are flat.
2. Roll the coat, start by folding the collar and out stretched sleeves towards the waist line. Fold the outer corner of each skirt of the coat so as to be in line with the end of each outstreched sleeve cuff as shown.
3. Fold the bottom edge of the coat in towards the waist seam so that the rear coat vent is on the folded upper side as shown.
4. Tightly roll from the sleeve end of the coat until the bottom edge is reached. I have found you can get a neater tighter finish if two persons roll the coat.
5. Finally, fold the rolled coat in half so the folded bottom edge is uppermost as shown and secure the ends with a strap. The rain cape can be secured with straps to the outer side of the greacoat or the coat can be rolled within the cape.
Post war greatcoats appear to be cut slightly differently from wartime coats, however the method of rolling the skatka remains unchanged.It was often seen being worn with the ends of the bedroll tucked into the early pattern mess tin cook pot
HOW TO FOLD THE SHINEL INTO A SKATKA.
1. Unfasten the left button of the half belt (Hylastic) on the back of the greatcoat. Lay the greatcoat on the ground with the inner side uppermost. Spread out the skirts, sleeves and collar and smooth out the pockets and coat liner so they are flat.
2. Roll the coat, start by folding the collar and out stretched sleeves towards the waist line. Fold the outer corner of each skirt of the coat so as to be in line with the end of each outstreched sleeve cuff as shown.
3. Fold the bottom edge of the coat in towards the waist seam so that the rear coat vent is on the folded upper side as shown.
4. Tightly roll from the sleeve end of the coat until the bottom edge is reached. I have found you can get a neater tighter finish if two persons roll the coat.
5. Finally, fold the rolled coat in half so the folded bottom edge is uppermost as shown and secure the ends with a strap. The rain cape can be secured with straps to the outer side of the greacoat or the coat can be rolled within the cape.
5. Portyanki foot wraps.
Portyanki (Portyanka-singular) were purportedly introduced to the Imperial Russian Army after Peter the Great visited the Netherlands and saw Dutch soldiers wearing foot wraps in the early 1700's. They have remained in service with the Russian soldier until partially abandoned in the military reforms of 2007. They were finally consigned to history in 2013 and were replaced by the issue of socks.
There are some advantages to wearing foot wraps as opposed to socks. Portyanki better support the foot and air trapped in the folds better insulate the foot. Also, when wet they can be dried quicker than traditional socks. Wrapping the portyanki is a difficult technique to perfect and getting it wrong can cause some discomfort. However, once perfected, they are extremely comfortable to wear and obviate the need to perhaps wear several pairs of socks with sapogi boots.
Portyanki could be made from a medium weight linen material for summer use and a warmer thicker cotton or flannel material for winter use and measured about 35-40cm x 70-80cm.
Tip: I have found that a cotton or flannel bed pillow cover is most suitable, which I cut along the sides and end to make a pair of foot wraps. In the past I have sometimes I had to wear 2-3 pairs of socks to get a good fit of my sapogi boots. I have found if I wear one pair of socks with portyanki I get a really comfortable fit that lasts all day. If your boots are a tighter fit then just wearing the portyanki will suffice.
There are some advantages to wearing foot wraps as opposed to socks. Portyanki better support the foot and air trapped in the folds better insulate the foot. Also, when wet they can be dried quicker than traditional socks. Wrapping the portyanki is a difficult technique to perfect and getting it wrong can cause some discomfort. However, once perfected, they are extremely comfortable to wear and obviate the need to perhaps wear several pairs of socks with sapogi boots.
Portyanki could be made from a medium weight linen material for summer use and a warmer thicker cotton or flannel material for winter use and measured about 35-40cm x 70-80cm.
Tip: I have found that a cotton or flannel bed pillow cover is most suitable, which I cut along the sides and end to make a pair of foot wraps. In the past I have sometimes I had to wear 2-3 pairs of socks to get a good fit of my sapogi boots. I have found if I wear one pair of socks with portyanki I get a really comfortable fit that lasts all day. If your boots are a tighter fit then just wearing the portyanki will suffice.
6. How to tie the myeshok.
7. Using the Mosin Nagant rifle cleaning kit.
The instructions in this section are intended for field maintenance only and do not extend beyond that ie, as carried out by an armourer for servicing and repair etc. After firing, the weapon should be cleaned immediately or as soon as possible as the blank charges we use are particularly corrosive to the bore. It is recommended that all external debris and dirt should be removed from the rifle firstly, before proceding to cleaning the barrel. The barrel should be oiled on the final pull through and thoroughly so if the weapon is to be stored for some time. Weapon cleaning after firing will be incorporated into our living history displays where appropriate.
Cleaning kit.

A. Combination tool.
B. Muzzle protector.
C. Metal stock with flattend section.
D. Cleaning rod tube.
E. Cleaning jag.
F. Cleaning brush. (not always included in kit)
G. Pre-early war combination tool.
H. Oil bottle (dual compartments)
I. Canvas tool pouch.
Although not included as standard with the cleaning kit, it is useful to have a small stiff bristled brush to use to remove debris and dirt from the areas around the breech, trigger and magazine etc.
The oil bottle is marked with the Cyrillic characters which denotes the type of lubrication in each compartment, щ & н
Щ "масло щелочная" (Maslo Shchelochnaya) base oil. H " масло Hейтральное" (Maslo Nyootralnoye) neutral oil.
The bolt.
This descriptive is for brief information only. The bolt on the Mosin is unnecessarily complicated and machined, which was due to some extent, to patenting issues in the developement stages of the weapon. Assembling and disassembling can be somewhat 'fiddlesome' for those not used to doing so, as it involves some simultaneous alignment of various grooves and notches etc. Therefore it is advocated members, unless praticed, do not field strip the bolt. Advice is given on how to check and adjust the firing pin protrusion.
Bolt disassembled.

A. Bolt slide.
B. Cocking piece.
C. Bolt body.
D. Bolt head.
E. Firing pin spring.
F. Firing pin.
If any member wishes to receive further instruction on stripping the bolt etc, please refer to John, Brian, Paul or Phil T at any of our events.
Removing a fouled bayonet from the rifle.
It was common practice for the bayonet to be permanantly attached to the rifle. Indeed, the rifle was often sighted and zeroed on the range with the bayonet fitted. In the field, the bayonet fitting became fouled and rusted to the muzzle, making it difficult to remove. The large aperture on the combination tool was used to release a fouled bayonet.
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Soldiers Army Book
The following notes are a guide to completing the Army Book, which was carried at all times by the soldier.
Page 12.

Table of sizes.
1st Column:
For soldier to note personal clothing sizes.
* Greatcoat.
* Ushanka/Schlem.
* Furazhka.
* Pilotka.
* Sapogi boots.
* Ankle boots.
* Undershirt.
* Sharovaris - both summer & winter issue breeches.
* Linen.
Columns 1-2. To note sizes
1st Column:
For soldier to note personal clothing sizes.
* Greatcoat.
* Ushanka/Schlem.
* Furazhka.
* Pilotka.
* Sapogi boots.
* Ankle boots.
* Undershirt.
* Sharovaris - both summer & winter issue breeches.
* Linen.
Columns 1-2. To note sizes